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World’s 50 Best: the “best restaurant in the world” is Danish and it’s called Geranium

To find out where it’s good to eat in 2022, visit our site at 9:30 p.m. for a first live report of the ceremony, also visible on Youtube.

11:25 p.m. “That’s it!” (“That’s all”), concludes Stanley Tucci, while the guests head for the after-party, and the live is cut. Simple and efficient.

11:20 p.m. The speech of the evening is by Rasmus Kofoed from Geranium. He evokes his youth spent observing nature, at a time when “Netflix didn’t exist”, which “forge” his kitchen. It evokes “big dreams and strong friendships, passion and an involved team”whom he thanks. “Food is a connector, across continents and cultures. I am grateful to be part of it,” he said in essence. “Skel!” (“health” in Danish), he concludes.

11:17 p.m. And the best restaurant in the world is… Geranium, in Copenhagen (Denmark). He was one of the big favorites – last year he came second. Geranium is an establishment that can be described as committed: last November, for example, it announced that it would give up meat. His compatriot, Noma, does not feature in the top 50 this year, although he had already received the award several times in the early 2010s, which he had already announced on Instagram.

11:16 p.m. Peru is also well represented, with Central Restaurante, from Lima, taking 2nd place.

11:15 p.m. Well, we stop reporting to you every time fleet brands are mentioned? Okay, let’s stop.

11:14 p.m. Spain are strong, with Disfrutar, from Barcelona, ​​taking 3rd place.

11:13 p.m. Pujol, from Mexico City, takes 5th place and first from America. 4th place went to Diverxo, from Madrid.

11:11 p.m. While the sponsors are back… Tucci’s check is getting heavier.

11:10 p.m. The ceremony proceeds at full speed. The plus: you don’t have time to get bored with lengthy speeches. The least: you don’t have a second to pee.

11:05 p.m. Ninth place went to Quintonil, led by Jorge Vallero, in Mexico City. 8th place goes to Lido 84 (Italy). A Casa do Porto, from Sao Paulo, takes 7th place. As for the 6th, it returns to the grill table Asador Etxebarri, in Spain.

10:58 p.m. The top 10 are to be announced shortly… but first, the ‘Icon Award’ goes to Kenyan entrepreneur and philanthropist Wawira Njiru, founder of the organization Food For Education, which distributes meals to school children.

10:49 p.m. And again, the San Pellegrino and Aqua Panna fleet brands are mentioned again. Tiring.

10:45 p.m. Stanley Tucci is mistaken (intentionally?) in evoking the classification of “worst restaurants”. “That one will take place tomorrow,” he jokes. Bertrand Grébaut (Septime, Paris) comes in 22nd position, bringing to three the number of Parisian tables present in the first 50 places.

10:43 p.m. The awards are alternately presented by past recipients and sponsor representatives. This makes a curious impression: can you imagine Air France or the BNP encrusting themselves on the stage of the Césars?

10:40 p.m. More than 7,000 Internet users are now connected to attend the crowning of the best sommelier. which is awarded to “a legendary fig in the world of wine”according to Stanley Tucci: it is the Spaniard Josep Roca.

10:39 p.m. The French can gain confidence: the Clarence, led by Christophe Pelé in Paris, reached 28th place in the standings.

10:35 p.m. Is it so hard to win female chefs that you have to tailor a consolation prize to them? The award for best female chef, presented by Peruvian Pia Leon, winner of the prize last year, goes to Leonor Espinosa – an award that was already announced in the spring. The Colombian chef thus confirms the interest of the 50 Best for South American cooks.

10:33 p.m. L’Arpège, by Alain Passard, takes 31st place. This is the first table in France to be part of the top 50 tonight.

10:32 p.m. None of the winners makes a speech. A greeting, a photo, and good evening at home. Refreshing.

10:31 p.m. The prize for service and hospitality is awarded to Atomix, a Korean restaurant in New York.

10:30 p.m. Finally a female chef is awarded (without her husband). It is Hisa Franko, from London, who takes 34th place.

10:29 p.m. A Frenchman is awarded, but for his restaurant in Singapore, Odette. Julien Royer takes 36th place in the standings.

10:28 p.m. The African continent enters the scene, in 37th place, with the Fyn restaurant, from Cape Town (South Africa).

10:24 p.m. We arrive at the 39th and for the moment, no Frenchman is in the 50 best. The winners are mainly Spanish, Japanese, Brazilian, Chilean, American, Thai, Swiss or even Danish.

10:21 p.m. The prize for the best pastry chef is awarded to the German René Frank. In its restaurant, you can dine entirely on desserts.

10:19 p.m. Le Bernardin, in New York (United States), takes 44th place in the ranking.

10:17 p.m. Christophe Barbier’s collection of red scarves has been found. For some reason that we admit we don’t know, many award winners wear one around their neck.

10:16 p.m. Is Stanley Tucci paid for the number of times he mentions the San Pellegrino brand? If so, he will leave tonight with a big check.

10:12 p.m. Alexandre Mazzia (AM, Marseille) has been named “One to Watch” (sorry “American Express One to Watch”, should be careful not to forget the sponsors…) or, the chef to follow. A kind of “best hope” of gastronomy – which hope is already crowned with three Michelin stars.

10:10 p.m. A kind of slideshow lists the names of restaurants placed between 100th and 51st place in the ranking, already announced last week. As expected, there are five French tables: those of Emmanuel Renaut (99th), Alexandre Mazzia (80th), Bruno Verjus (77th), Alexandre Gauthier (61st) and Yannick Alléno (58th).

10:06 p.m. Aponiente (Cadiz, Spain) receives the sustainable restaurant award.

10:02 p.m. Actor Stanley Tucci (seen notably in The Devil wears Prada, Paths of Perdition, Julie and Julia, Supernova Where Hanger Games), who has her own cooking show on CNN and has written a cookbook, hits the stage. “If you have already started drinking Martinis, come on stage, take your prize and do not make a speech”, he basically jokes.

9:59 p.m. If it only took a handful of minutes to talk politics, only a few more minutes were needed to get back to serious things and broadcast a first ad, politely applauded, for San Pellegrino, one of the evening’s sponsors.

9:54 p.m. At the podium, William Reed, CEO of 50 Best, talks about the war in Ukraine and the #CookforUkraine solidarity movement. In the audience, the applause is provided. From now on, it seems that no culinary prize can do without distributing political awards: whether it is a question of promoting diversity, inclusiveness or short circuits, from Michelin to Gault and Millau, everyone has their own. At the 50 Best, we reward in particular the “champions of change”, that is, the champions of change.

9:50 p.m. A promotional film, marking the 20th anniversary of the 50 Best, is broadcast. Big Hollywood-style music, testimonials from chefs (we can see the Italian Massimo Bottura, the Dane René Redzepi and the Argentinian Mauro Colagreco, all award-winning in past years) to the glory of the winners, images of hugs at previous ceremonies: all boxes are checked.

9:44 p.m. While nearly 4,000 Internet users from all over the world, mainly from Europe (Spain, Italy, Germany, Denmark, etc.) and America (United States, Mexico, Brazil, Peru, etc.), are connected to Youtube live, the ceremony begins. William Drew, content director of 50 Best, recalls that this year marks the 20th anniversary of the charts.

If Eurovision brings together both lovers of powerful voices and wavy chips on the sofa, the foodies also have their salty-sweet high mass. When you think about it, Eurovision and 50 Best have several points in common: behind the great television spectacle (close-ups on the faces of singers or conductors, mix of elevator music and epic conquests, inlays of lasers fluo, adrenaline rush until the winner is revealed), the 50 Best, like the Viking song contest, is much more political than it seems. This year, the William Reed group, which organizes and publishes the ranking, has chosen not to include any Russian table on its menu (where Eurovision won Ukraine hands down). In 2019, the American-Spanish chef José Andrés, fiercely anti-Trump, was hailed by the ranking for his commitment in the kitchen and for the poorest (where, among other political positions, Eurovision has always been very open on gender issue). Finally, the 50 Best has become a veritable thermometer of the place occupied by nations in the world gastronomic landscape, while tracing the lines of force of alliances and friendships between countries. A real shadow diplomacy (or “soft power” to use the words of Nicolas Chatenier, “Academy Chair” at 50 Best and author of a book on the subject (1)), where countries well rated for their gastronomy automatically arouse strong international interest, positive for tourism, the image, and therefore the local or even national economy.

What are France’s chances of appearing at the top of the ranking? A week ago, the list revealed the names of the restaurants arriving between the 51st and the 100th place, way put in the mouth before the ceremony of this Monday evening. The real surprise was mainly the fact of seeing the appearance of very beautiful French addresses which, inevitably, will not appear in the top 50! La Grenouillère by Alexandre Gauthier, at Madelaine-sous-Montreuil (Pas-de-Calais), crowned with two well-deserved stars, only comes in 61st place here. Alléno Paris is 58th after having already been (oh grail) 41st – a tumble that takes him out of the top 50. Bruno Verjus enters the rankings, but only in 77th place. The highly regarded Alexandre Mazzia, in Marseille (3 stars since last year) made an honorable entry in 80th place, but he was above all crowned “One to watch”, that is to say “leader to follow” of the year. Emmanuel Renaut, he won 99th place with his restaurant Flocons de sel in Megève. As for those who are conspicuous by their absence (David Toutain, Alain Passard, Pierre Gagnaire, Bertrand Grébaut, Anne-Sophie Pic or Alexandre Couillon), they could also reserve for frenchy foodies the best of surprises.

(1) The English Key – Geopolitics of French gastronomy, Nicolas Chatenier, interviews with Laurent Séminel, ed. Menu Fretin, 2022, 144 pages, 14 euros.

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